Companion Planting List

Companion Planting List

The concept behind companion planting is that some plants can help one another out if they are planted next to or close to one another.

Companion planting helps some plants by providing natural pest management without the need for chemicals, and in some situations, it can increase crop yield.

Although companion planting is typically associated with small-scale gardening, it can also be used in larger-scale enterprises. It has been established that having a crop in a nearby field that draws particular insects away from a field next to one that has the primary crop can be quite advantageous. Trap cropping is the term for this practice.

Although companion planting has a long history, its advantages have not always been recognized. Gardeners have long utilized traditional companion planting advice, but recent research is demonstrating their effectiveness.

Other ways companion planting can be advantageous include growing a crop, such as any legume, in a location where it will add nitrogen to the soil, preventing the need for chemical fertilizers for the following crop.

Along with other plants, the African marigold is well recognized for companion planting because it releases compounds from its roots or aerial portions that deter or ward off pests and defend nearby plants.

Physical evidence of companion planting is also present. For instance, increased total yields from the land may arise from allowing tall-growing, sun-loving plants to coexist with lower-growing, shade-tolerant species. This is known as spatial interaction, and it can also help with pest control; for instance, thorny vines are reported to deter raccoons from destroying sweet corn.

Nurse cropping is another sort of companion planting where tall or densely canopied plants may shade or act as a windbreak to protect more vulnerable plants. Oats, for instance, have been used for a long time to aid in the establishment of alfalfa and other forages by displacing the more aggressive weeds that would otherwise take their place. Nurse cropping is frequently just another instance of a physical-spatial connection.

Beneficial habitats, also known as refugia, are a different kind of companion planting that has attracted a lot of interest lately. Companion plants are advantageous when they create a favorable environment for beneficial insects and other arthropods, particularly those predatory and parasitic species that aid in controlling pest populations.

List of Companion Plants

The benefits of companion planting are not only visible to the naked eye but also the improvement of the micro-organisms in the soil. Here follows a list of some of the plants that grow well together, in the vegetable garden.

Plant Companion Plant Incompatible
Asparagus Tomato, Parsley, Basil n/a
Beans Most Herbs & Vegetables Onion
Cabbage Aromatic Herbs, Celery, Beets, Onion Family, Chamomile, Spinach, Chard Strawberries, Tomato, Dill
Carrots Peas, Lettuce, Onion, Sage, Tomato Dill
Celery Nasturtium, Onion, Cabbage, Tomato n/a
Cucumber Beans, Peas, Sunflower, Raddish Aromatic Herbs, Potato
Lettuce Carrot, Radish, Strawberry, Cucumber n/a
Onions Beets, Carrots, Lettuce, Cabbage Beans, Peas
Parsley Tomato, Asparagus n/a
Peas Carrots, Raddish, Turnips, Cucumber, Beans, Onions, Potato
Potato Beans, Cabbage, Horseradish, Marigolds Sunflower, Cucumber, Tomato
Raddish Peas, Nasturtium, Lettuce, Cucumber Hyssop
Spinach Strawberry, Faba Bean n/a
Tomato Onion, Marigold, Asparagus, Carrot, Parsley, Cucumber Cabbage, fennel, Potato
Turnip Pea Potato

Sowing Seasons

It is best to do your sowing a little and often. Sowing needs to be done every couple of weeks for most seeds, but there are some seeds that take longer to germinate and grow so their sowing times need to be longer between each sowing bach. Sowing regularly is the only way to achieve a continuous supply of flowers or vegetables throughout the growing season.

January Sowing

  • Sow early radishes and lettuce in a cold frame.
  • Buy and ” chit” seed potatoes.
  • Net currant bushes to prevent birds from eating new buds.
  • Order seeds for spring sowings.

February Sowing

  • Early beetroot, broad beans, spinach, summer cabbage, calabrese, globe artichoke, and lettuce in trays indoors.
  • Early beetroot, carrots, lettuces, spring onions, salad leaves, and spinach outside under cloches, in warmer areas.
  • Onions, shallots, and garlic, outside as soon as the soil is workable, or next month.
  • Rhubarb under forcing pots.
  • Tubers of Jerusalem artichokes from now until April.

March Sowings

  • Transplant February sowings into individual pots, and keep them under cover.
  • Sow leeks and celery, in trays, and transplant them into pots when ready.
  • Peas and beans into pots.
  • Early beetroot, carrots, lettuces, spring onions, radishes, leaf beet, and salad leaves seeds directly outside.
  • Plant early potatoes when the ground is dry enough.

April Sowings

  • Kale, broad bean, kohlrabi, leeks, and parsnips directly into the ground.
  • Beans, courgettes, squashes, pumpkins, and sweet corn under glass, plant outside end of May.
  • Repeat sowings of salad leaves, rocket, parsley, coriander, carrots, and spring onions.
  • Plant one-year-old Asparagus.

May Sowings

  • Sow brussel sprouts, broccoli, winter cabbage, and kale in seedbeds.
  • Repeat sowings of peas, salad leaves, rocket, parsley, beetroot, coriander, carrots, kohlrabi, and spring onions.
  • Harden off celery plants, and plant out at end of the month.
  • Plant out beans, squash, courgettes, sweet corn, and pumpkins, towards the end of the month.
  • Thin any seedlings.

June Sowings

  • Continue to sow French and runner beans, peas, beetroot, carrots, kohlrabi, spinach, lettuce, and all salads.
  • Plant out seedlings of leeks, cabbages, celeriac, courgettes, squashes, pumpkins, calabrese, broccoli, and outdoor tomatoes.

July Sowings

  • Sow kale, spinach, Chinese greens, cabbages, radishes, and winter lettuces, directly outside.
  • Continue sowing all salad crops.

August Sowings

  • Sow cabbages, perpetual spinach, radicchio, winter lettuces, and spring onions in seed beds or pots. Sow parsley for winter cropping.
  • Prepare strawberry beds and plant out runners.

September Sowings

  • Sow swiss chard, perpetual spinach, and mixed winter salad leaves outside.
  • Sow lamb’s lettuce under cover, for winter use.
  • Order fruit bushes for winter sowing.

October Sowings

  • Sow garlic, onion sets, broad beans, and peas directly outside over winter.
  • Plant out seedling spring cabbage and greens until the middle of the month.
  • Lift main crop potatoes.
  • Sow green manure if the ground is to be left till spring.

November Sowings

  • Peas and broad beans can still be sown.
  • Fruit bushes and rhubarb can be planted if the ground is good.
  • Lift mint roots and divide, pot up, and put under cover for winter use.

December Sowings

  • Onion sets can still be planted out.
  • Protect bay, rosemary, and marjoram in cloches or with fleece.

Organic Vegetable Garden

Growing veggies without the use of chemicals result in produce that is tastier and healthier for you. These days, a lot of the veggies you buy are cultivated in subpar soils, depriving them of vital nutrients. So, if the veggie is lacking in goodness, eating it will leave you feeling the same way.

Although maintaining your own organic vegetable garden will need some effort from you, the rewards are tremendous. As a result, you not only consume healthy vegetables but also engage in a lot of beneficial exercises.

Therefore, no chemical fertilizers or pest, disease, or weed management will be used in your organic vegetable garden. Other methods, such as supporting biological control or helpful predators, are available to handle these issues without the use of toxic pesticides.

The soil is the most crucial component of your organic vegetable garden, thus it’s important to test it so you can take the required steps to get the soil just right before you start. If your soil dries up too rapidly, you should amend it with a lot of organic matter, such as farm or stable manure. This will not only help the soil retain more water but will also add beneficial nutrients. You must incorporate enough sand and grit into your soil in addition to the manure if it becomes water-logged.

Your organic vegetable garden needs to have the proper soil PH otherwise your veggies won’t grow well and are more likely to be attacked by pests and diseases. Neutral soil with a PH between 6.5 and 7 is good. You need to add chalk or lime to your organic vegetable garden’s soil if it is too acidic. If the soil is alkaline, you need to add peat or, in the worst situations, sulfur powder, although a lot of organic matter will help the issue. It is better to add them before the winter so that the winter rain can properly soak it in.

The very foundation of your organic vegetable garden is organic matter. In addition to farm and horse manure, there is also leaf mold, garden compost, spent mushroom compost (which is typically good for raising the ph), straw, pulverized pine bark (which is increasingly used as a peat replacement but is far more durable), and of course, peat, though we try to use it as sparingly as possible.

If you can, prepare your organic vegetable garden in the fall so that the ground can mature while receiving all the manure and other materials you have inserted. You can cover the plot to prevent weeds from growing there using old carpet, cardboard, or any other material that lets water through but blocks light. In preparation for when you need to begin planting, it will also keep the earth warmer.

Planning your organic food garden comes next. By preventing pests and illnesses from accumulating in the soil, rotation cropping helps to limit their prevalence. This indicates that various crops are cultivated in various garden areas on a five-year cycle. This also prevents the soil from losing the same nutrients year after year.

Leafy Crops, need nitrogen-rich soil and may need liming

  • Brassicas
  • Cabbage
  • Cauliflower
  • Radish
  • Swede

Well-drained but moisture-retentive; non-nitrogen-rich soil.

  • Legumes
  • Peas
  • Broad Beans
  • French Beans
  • Runner Beans

High Organic matter – may need liming

  • Onions
  • Garlic
  • Shallots
  • Leeks
  • Potato
  • Tomato

High organic matter and nitrogen – no lime structure. Suppresses weeds, breaks up soil

  • Umbrellifers
  • Carrot
  • Parsnip
  • Parsley
  • Celery
  • Florence Fennel

Some plants have very few soil-dwelling pests or diseases that can be planted anywhere within the rotation. They are as follows:

  • aubergines
  • chicory
  • courgettes
  • cucumbers
  • endives
  • fennel
  • french beans
  • lettuces
  • marrows
  • peppers
  • pumpkins
  • runner beans
  • squashes
  • sweet corn

Choose the crops you want to cultivate, then divide your organic vegetable garden into five or more parts. Group them into plant families based on the presence of common pests and diseases, then according to the type of soil they need.

To rotate your organic vegetable garden, move each bed back one spot, alternating between the beds for legumes, brassica, umbellifers, and so forth.

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